Haunted Places of Kolkata

Like every other densely populated old cities of the country, Kolkata has its own share of haunted places. Old buildings and heritage sites that has been in this city for a while and has haunted past, are scattered all over. Some people say its all made up, some believe them from the core of their hearts while some try to find rationality among the widely spread stories.

The National Library – Alipur

This one is probably the most famous of all the haunted spots in the city. There are a few stories around this complex probably due to the mammoth size of the building or the huge piece of land this building acquires. Out of these stories, two are the most famous versions that are listed here. In early nineties, the British Government had ordered a renovation of the old block and construction of a new complex. It was during this renovation that as many as twelve labours lost their lives in an accident at the site. It is said that even to this day, the spirits of those workers lurks inside the new complex during the darker hours. In another version of the story, it is believed that during the same period there was an English grad student of a reputed college of the city who visited the Library in search of study material. He met with an accident and died at the gates of the library after one such visit of his to this great building. During his last days at the library, he was studying some letters of the Victorian era which was stacked in an obscure corner of the main library building. It is believed that the spirit of this young Bengali student visits the library during odd hours to complete his research paper. Some of the people who have noticed such paranormal existence would testify with the details of how they have seen letters all scattered on the desks when the library gates open at 10am in the morning or even how construction issues arise inside the complex and how they are miraculously solved in some moments. There are eyewitnesses who say that they have heard footsteps of former Lieutenant Governor of Bengal, who used to reside in the same building.

The Royal Calcutta Turf Club – The Race Course

This is a story of mid 1930s of a race maniac called George Williams who loved his horses more than his family and his job at the secretariat. He had as many as 5 horses, out of which his most famous and dearest was a pearl white horse called Pride. Pride was rightly named as she won a few tough races, fame and money for her master. Williams used to spend most of his time in his stable at the race course complex and mostly with his piece of pride. With age, came some complications in the health of Pride and she no longer was the queen of the tracks. Her last race was the Annual Calcutta Derby where she lost the race and Williams lost a lot of fortune. She was found dead the next morning on the tracks with bullet injuries. Though the sources close to Williams and the RCTC had reportedly admitted that she was killed as per the traditions of killing a horse when she is aged and not well, there is another version which states that Williams, in a drunken state, had killed the horse out of sheer frustration. Even as the entire Turf racing fraternity mourned the loss of such a beauty on the tracks, the spirit of Pride is still believed to be seen on the green patch during late nights of Saturdays. Some witnesses have said that they have seen a patch of white fog gushing past the tracks giving an impression of Pride. Mystery or myth, Pride remains alive in the stories of her existence, even as today’s Kolkata remembers her as the “William shaheb er shada Ghoda”

South Park Street Cemetery – Park Street

Perhaps every Kolkata guy has experienced the night life of Park Street. A few, however, has experienced the late night life there. The primitive name of this famous residential cum office area is Burial Road, primarily because of the existence of South Park Street Cemetery. Many of us

confuse this old address with the Mullick Bazaar Cemetery. But still this old burial place, built in 1767, remains in the shadows of the new age High rise buildings and flashy lights. The entry to this place gives you an eerie experience right from the big iron gates to the marble stone studded lanes that take you through the rows of graves bearing British names. Stories of other-worldly figures lingering inside the campus, has been doing rounds for many years. No specific person could be identified as the spirit. Sources and eyewitnesses confirm white fog of humanly figure has been spotted regularly at the grounds, in the early mornings and late evenings. People residing in the adjacent buildings prefer to keep their cemetery-faced windows closed most of the time.

Rabindra Sarovar Metro Station – Mudiali

The other name in which The Kolkata Metro is famous is “Paradise of Suicide”. It is a commonly known death trap with 4000 Volts of current running in the famed third line (a third rail that runs parallel to the tracks and is a little elevated on de-conductors and is usually covered with a wooden plank). Shockingly, around 70% of all people who have lost their lives in the tracks of Metro have committed suicide at Rabindra Sarovar Metro Station. There are stories of how people, travelling to the station in the last metro which reaches the station at around 10:30pm, found some eerie images of figures vanishing in a fraction of second. There are even rumours of shadows moving on the platform on late evenings.

The Writers Building - BBD Bag

The present Writers' Building in Calcutta was first started as early as 1690. Within the periphery of the old fort, the junior writers or clerks of the East India Company used to stay in mud hovels. So it came to be known as the 'Writers' Building'. On 25th June, 1695, these hovels were destroyed by a tempest. Then, the second Writers' Building was constructed inside the old fort. In 1706, the new one-storeyed brick-built building was built. The other Writers' Building stood at the place where the G.P.O. or Fairly Place stand today.

This building has a haunted past too. It is believed that the spirit of Captain Simpson of British East India Company, who was killed by the famous revolutionaries Binay, Badal & Dinesh, still resides in the building facades. The most notorious part of the mammoth building is probably the fifth block where he was shot. Roadside vendors outside the building have often reported of listening to footsteps and voices from within the building well after the earthly hours. Even the busiest blocks of the power house gets deserted after 7pm.

The Hastings House - Hastings

The old residence of the Governor-General at 20B, Judges Court road has another interesting story to tell.

Stories are that Warren Hastings visits the campus in search of some old papers he had lost. His footsteps could be heard. Also doing the rounds are the story of his infamous wife and children, all of whom had unnatural death within this place, comes often to visit their old residence in horse drawn chariot. Shadowy figures are a common thing that many students of The Women’s College of Calcutta University, which now owns the property, have seen. There are stories about how an young students suffered terrible injuries while playing football. Playing any sorts of sport within the campus has become an unwritten rule for all students now.

The Kolkata Dock – Khidderpur

This place was originally owned by Nawab Wajid Ali Shah of Awadh. After his kingdom was snatched from him by the East Inda Company in 1856, The Nawab took refuge in the area which now holds the Kolkata docks. There are a few eerie stories about the complex. It is believed that the spirit of the Nawab resides here to take revenge on the British Empire. Since Nawab was a fond follower of music, hair rising stories of how classical music being heard also do the rounds.

The National Museum – Chowranghee

The museum was transferred to it’s current location in 1878 with two galleries. Now the gigantic building holds close to sixty galleries of art inside its premises. The place is a well known haunted location of the city. People have heard a lot of sounds made by the traditional anklets worn by women during dance performances. It is believed that the owner of the properties which lies at the residence guards them from thieves. Directors or the organization, past and present, have refuted all these claims.

The Dhaaki who Played well...

I was just coming out of Citi Centre Chennai today and found a person sitting with some copies of the Holy Quran. I found some attraction in the guy’s approach and stood there for a while. Just feeling out of place I lit up a cigarette and kept noticing the guy. He spoke to some people who came to his stall. He said he was giving a copy of the Holy Quran to non-Muslims. I went in and asked for a copy. He obliged.

There was a Muslim fellow along with me there. He knew who I was. He asked me gently – “Why do you need a copy? Do you have second thoughts in your mind?” I said “No. I just want to know what is there in this book which makes it Holy...”

He looked and me and said “Aren’t you a Hindu Brahmin?” I asked “how does it matter?” I knew the most obvious question in his mind. He wanted to know how could a Hindu Brahmin take a copy of Quran and want to read it. What he didn’t know was what surprised me. No religion ever tells you not to read something which is holy.

I remember a small time story of when we were organizing a Durga Puja in our area. All the locals were mesmerized by the way the Dhaaki showed his skills with the two sticks. He not only danced to the tunes he played along with his huge drum bejeweled with feathers, but also impressed he crowd with his antics. Some one just yelled “Hey Aslam, just play that tune again…” Well that was enough. Just as a small matchstick that can destroy an entire city. Half of the crowd just vanished. Most of them left the pandal with big eyes yelling curses in their mind at the organizers. A Muslim Dhaaki in Durga Pandal -That raised a lot of eyebrows, I tell you.

I still don’t understand this. Its twenty first century and we call ourselves civilized. Still people discriminate on terms of cast, creed, sect and colour. There is no room for intellect or art left in this division.

One of my favourite actors, Anjan Dutta, once asked what is religion, leaving all the people around flabbergasted. He said religion means Church; it means Temple or a Mosque. It means architecture. Religion means the numerous frescos in the churches around the world, it means the precious art that is inside a mosque or a temple or a gurudwara. It means Carols, Kirtans and Quawalis. It lies in the hundreds of devotees who sing, just to be an inch closer to God. It means Gita, Guru Granth Sahib, Quran and Bible. It means the hundreds of literature written around the world. In one word, Religion is Art.

He was right. No one could actually refute that. It’s on us how we want to call our God. Do we want to Sing or write or just simply paint or how exactly you do it, is just not the question.

I never say that religion was not important. If religion was not there, then probably the world would have been left bereft of music, literature and art. There would have been no John Lenon or Beatles or even Ricky Martin. There wouldn’t have been Leonardo Da Vinci or Michelangelo or Beethoven. No Jim Carrey or Shahrukh Khan or Morgan Freeman. But, what we never needed was the discrimination or the hatred which spreads because some people fell they are superior on basis of their religion.

The unseen Kolkata

Famed author, Günter Grass once said – “Kolkata is like a piece of shit on the face of this earth.” No one in this city will probably take this in a bad notion as we think what he said was entirely his own feelings. Quite naturally a person ignorant of India and its cultures will probably never understand this city. Or maybe it’s our mistake that we couldn’t show him the brighter side of things here.

A lot of my friends tell me that this city is chaotic, probably not feeling to be as straight faced as Günter Grass. Yes, Kolkata is chaotic, dirty at places, yet it’s the City of Joy. The city we all love.

One of those friends of mine from foreign land was in the city after much persuasion from my end. I showed him the city through my eyes. After two days of roaming and merry eating, he said “This wasn’t enough. I have travelled the world. Stayed in top cities but never have I felt so connected to a place.” I felt proud that I could change atleast one guys feeling about the city, but trust me it’s not my credit.

I didn’t make the Victoria Memorial look so brilliant in the dimming day light. I didn’t make the Vidyasagar Setu look like a stretched like arm from the Princep Ghat. I didn’t make the amber bathed streets of the night so inviting. It was all there. No one ever noticed.

Why blame the outsiders? How much do we know the city? Saying “I Love Kolkata” doesn’t help much if you haven’t seen the best of it.

I invite you to go on a trip with me to the best of places that the city have. I’m sure you guys are aware are these places but take the trip to know inviting it can be.

Start with a trip on the Circular Railway that runs by the riverside of the city. Start from Majherhat station to BBD Bag Station. Best time to do have a ride is early evening. Stand at the western gate of the compartment to enjoy the best view of the full orange sun going down on the lesser populated side of the river. Enjoy as the train strides towards the green path and takes slight turns. My first time I felt that I’m lost. I’m lost for the good. I’m lost to see a better place.

Then take a ride from Gariahat on the tram to Esplanade. This is the longest route where the silent creepers of the city travels, yet the most interesting. You’ll love the ride as it travels along the hundreds of cars as they cross the city’s major junctures of Kalighat, Rashbehari and Chetla, the fast paced streets of Mominpur reaching the slow but chaotic Khidderpur. Don’t forget to stick out your nose and take a deep aroma of the numerous farsans available. Then comes the greener part as it approaches the Maidan from its south western side where the greens and the high bridges crisscross each other. It gives you a feeling that the nature and architecture compliments each other. Then as it gets full on onto the Maidan crossing red road it reminds of the multiple films that are shot on this scenic locations. You’ll love it when it splashes the dirty water from the puddles near its tracks.

If you are hungry after travelling then don’t forget to catch a breadth or two as you sip onto the nimbupani from the street vendors of New Market. Or try some Chanachur from the Nehru cap clad hawkers of Russell Street or even the kebabs from Astor Hotel or even the famous Chicken Roll of Nizam’s. You are bound to feel like an emperor. Set yourself into the trance as you go inside the Tantra at The Park Hotel or simply enjoy a drink with good music at Someplace Else. For dinner, try the Chelo Kebab at Peter Cat or some of the Chinese delicacies at the Tung Fung or even a full platter at Mocambo or at Bar-B-Q or at Moulin Rouge. The choice is yours, how your taste buds are tickling.

Wake up late on Sunday and have the hinger Kachori at Maharani near Deshopriya Park. Have the biriyani and Halimfrom Arsalan or Zee Shan at Park Circus. Try the Bengali Platter at Bhajahari Manna or Tero Parbon or even at the mightier Aheli at Peerless Inn or Elgin road’s Oh Calcutta! Don’t forget a sandesh from the Sen Mahashay or a rasogulla at KC Das, which melts in your mouth, to end your course.

Visit the auction houses of Sudder Street or the old gramophone market on Boubazaar and get in to the nostalgia. If you have the love for the lesser intelligent beings then go to the Pet market at Ghallif Street. Or the College Street for the intellects is also an option. If you simply love to shop go to the Gariahat or New Market, even the Fancy Market or Mehra Building for the tech freaks to lay hands at the latest Gizmos.

Early evening momos at the Humro Momo, Mughlai at Anadi’r Cabin and Parota aar Kosha Mangsho at the Golbari or the late evening Fuchka or Bhelpuri at Vivekananda Park is not that great in terms of calories you consume but really well for mental satisfaction and off course your taste buds...

Enjoy the Fountain of Joy or a exhibition at the Art Gallery. Meet up and chat with old friends at the Nandan complex or even at the Indian Coffee House. If you are having a dinner out then don’t forget Beijing in Tangra. Specially with their Lemon Chicken and the rare wines, they’ll mesmerize you to the fullest. The age old Waldorf can also be a good choice for a cosy late dinner.

Hop off a late night metro ride as you feel proud or the engineering marvel the city could achieve well before the others as you feel fresh to welcome a brand new week. Off to office, off to a days work in search for another dollar. But little here and there at the city can surely help you cope with the pressures well, leaving aside the fact that you tend to love the 300 years old Tilottama a little more.